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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.